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Pandemic Tipple

By Lucy Hale

Argentina imposed one of the world鈥檚 longest pandemic lockdowns, a disruption that devastated critical sectors of the economy. The country鈥檚 iconic wine industry was not among them.

Wine consumption in Argentina was 7 percent higher in 2020 than in 2019, as homebound Argentines sought ways to fight the coronavirus gloom. That was a godsend for winemakers. In contrast to neighboring Chile, Latin America鈥檚 second-biggest wine producer, which exports three quarters of its wine production, Argentina sells only a abroad. Given the Italian and Spanish roots of many Argentines, 鈥渨ine is part of the dinner table in Argentina,鈥� Juan Carlos Pina, executive director of the industry association , said in an interview.

The country鈥檚 wine exports also performed well in 2020, boosted by a peso. Though the sector is not a major employer, the government has pointed to its performance as a of post-pandemic recovery. In all, the volume of Argentine wine exports grew by 21 percent from January to November, compared to a global decline of nearly 6 percent, according to Argentina鈥檚 Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura. Argentina was the only South American country to experience an increase in export volume in 2020; Chile鈥檚 export volume by 13 percent between January and August.

The industry鈥檚 performance does not reflect broader trends in Argentina, where the economy contracted in 2020 by an estimated 10 percent. But the wine sector is symbolically important, given the beverage鈥檚 centrality to Argentina鈥檚 culture and global image. Argentina is Latin America鈥檚 top wine producer, and the fifth largest in the world. Its wine growing region, in Andean mountain valleys, is often to California鈥檚 Napa Valley. The provinces of Mendoza and San Juan, the country鈥檚 , are internationally known for as well as Bonarda, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Special treatment from the national government has helped insulate winemakers from the economic tumult. In an interview, Francisco do Pico, of , praised Argentina鈥檚 designation of winemaking as an essential activity, which allowed most of Argentina鈥檚 wineries to operate uninterruptedly throughout the year despite lengthy national COVID-19 lockdowns. Chile also designated winemaking as an essential activity and imposed salary to support temporary farmworkers.

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Despite Argentina鈥檚 robust domestic sales and growing exports, however, 2020 brought significant challenges for its wine producers. The collapse in tourism, for example, cut into revenues for large and small wineries alike. Large wineries often rely on tourism to increase brand recognition and draw customers to upscale vineyard restaurants. For many smaller producers, tourism is a critical sales channel. In 2019, Argentina鈥檚 Mendoza province attracted a of tourists, nearly 700,000, a 10 percent increase from 2018. For much of 2020, however, Argentina kept its borders and even restricted domestic travel.

To take advantage of pent-up demand for travel, the Argentine and Chilean tourism ministries are jointly organizing the  a boozy, 800-mile expedition from La Serena, Chile to Santiago Del Estero, Argentina. But for now, as Argentina and Chile endure a second wave of the virus, a tourism rebound seems distant. Some winemakers are making use of underutilized facilities to support pandemic response, such as Vi帽a Concha y Toro, which owns 56 vineyards in Chile and ten in Argentina and has its research laboratory to process COVID-19 tests.

Even before the pandemic, Argentina鈥檚 wine industry was  of diminishing profitability. Though Argentines are drinking more wine, for popular vinos de mesa are cutting into revenues. That has made it difficult to pass on increasing production costs to consumers, including the rising price of transportation, Magdalena Pesce, of the industry association , said in an interview. South American winemakers are also harmed by increasingly unfavorable weather conditions related to climate change. Although harvests were largely uninterrupted by pandemic lockdowns, both Argentina and Chile saw double digit declines in production volume in 2020 as a result of drought conditions.

Now, the worsening pandemic is threatening potential labor shortages, should new travel restrictions deprive Argentina of temporary laborers, including Bolivians, during the grape harvest that began this month. Anticipating a scarcity of workers, Mendoza is recruiting 10,000 unemployed provincial residents to for farm labor.

Still, all in all, given the economic wreckage in most other Argentine industries, the pandemic performance of Argentina鈥檚 winemakers remains the toast of the town.